Milan Fashion Week: An Instagram-worthy extravaganza

If London is the fashion capital known for its hot young things, and Paris is the city of couture and histor...

Posted: Sep 25, 2018 1:34 PM
Updated: Sep 25, 2018 1:34 PM

If London is the fashion capital known for its hot young things, and Paris is the city of couture and history-laden heavyweights, then Milan sits somewhere in the middle. Once synonymous only with the glamour of the big names -- Armani, Gucci, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana -- in recent seasons the city has become a hotbed for new labels pushing to the fore. The likes of MSGM, Marco de Vincenzo, No. 21 and GCDS are now all commanding the same attention and column inches once reserved for the power players. Presenting new perspectives on Italian fashion, these brands have saved the city from going stale.

But the fashion industry on the whole -- regardless of country -- is in a state of flux, facing tough questions on equality, diversity and relevance in 2018. With this in mind, it wasn't just the clothes that had people talking. Here are five of Milan's key takeaways.

Arts and entertainment

Business figures

Celebrities

Companies

Continents and regions

Diversity

Europe

Fashion design

Fashion shows

Fashion Week

Fendi

Italy

LVMH

Milan

Miuccia Prada

Societal issues

Society

Southern Europe

Facebook

Instagram

Internet and WWW

Social media

Technology

Embracing diversity ... finally

It's no secret that fashion week needs to up its game when it comes to racial diversity, and, historically, Milan has lagged on this front. Last season, only 27% non-white models were cast.

But this season, there seemed to be a notable increase. Model Winnie Harlow opened both Byblos and Philipp Plein, while Fendi was opened by Adwoa Aboah and closed by Adut Akech. Philipp Plein, often one of the most divisive shows of the season, was one of the front-runners when it came to racial diversity: about half of his cast were models of color, including hijab-wearing model Halima Aden.

Age came into play too. Designer Erika Cavallini cast a group of older women to walk, a refreshing change that won't go unnoticed by her customers.

Feminism on the brain

During Milan Fashion Week, the New York Times released a damning exposé detailing the exploitation of female workers at the bottom of the manufacturing chain in southern Italy by luxury Italian brands, including Max Mara and Fendi. While the National Chamber of Italian Fashion sent out a press release trying to reframe its findings, the report kept the politics of fashion at the forefront of everyone's minds.

On the runway, gender politics were most astutely dissected by Miuccia Prada. The Prada collection was borne of the tightrope we walk between conservatism and liberalism, provocation and virtue. The prim elements -- knitted jumpers over white shirts, long skirts -- featured revealing cut-out details on the bust and back and were juxtaposed with transparent knee-high stockings and awkward sock-cum-sandals in jarring bright colors for off-kilter sex appeal.

Versace, too, was a celebration of womanhood, with Donatella Versace dedicating the show to powerful, fearless women everywhere. The collection of unashamed, modern glamour was made to accentuate and sculpt the female form fit the current moment perfectly. And the cherry on top? Nineties supermodel Shalom Harlow closing the show after a six-year runway hiatus, showing the Insta-generation just how it's done.

Doing it for the 'gram

In Milan, a city that lives for glitz and glamour, "less is more" does not apply. And when it came to this season's shows excess was definitely on trend, with social media playing perhaps the biggest part in some designers' decisions. Emporio Armani went for gold by taking over part of the city's Linate Airport, ushering some 2,500 guests through security and departure gates into a hangar -- which is already normally emblazoned with the brand's name and logo -- for pre-show cocktails and mini hot dogs. The show itself, held in a purpose-built stadium within the hangar, was the Instagram success the brand was no doubt vying for -- perhaps the most valuable currency of a fashion show now.

Elsewhere, Moschino's sense of humor provided plenty of Instagram fodder, with Jeremy Scott choosing to show an "unfinished" collection which had been scribbled over with colored markers. A shrug seemingly fashioned from an oversized tape measure and Gigi Hadid in a wedding dress surrounded by floating butterflies were particular hits.

And finally, it wouldn't be Milan Fashion Week without a spectacle from Philipp Plein, the self-proclaimed "king of bling." The designer may have taken stick in the past for his over-the-top collections, but it's undeniable that he understands the power of social media as a tool to elevate his brand's star power.

The collection, inspired by Michael Jackson, was wholly predictable, yet the addition of Chris Brown, Rita Ora, rapper 6ix9ine and a troop of burlesque performers made Plein's show a viral sensation.

"Social media changed the whole game for fashion," Plein said in an email after the show. "More and more brands choose a similar formula to mine ... Now everyone invites celebrities and performers, but when I started I was the only one doing that in Milan."

America the beautiful

The United Sates may be gripped by political turmoil, but designers are still finding inspiration in the country's sunnier days. Fledgling brand Brognano took its cues from the surfer community of the Californian coast for their first show, an influence shared by Etro, who went one step further and cast professional surfers as models.

Elsewhere Byblos looked to the Nevada desert and Burning Man, citing its vibrancy and radical nature as key influences for Spring-Summer 2019. MSGM found peace and love in tie-dye, while rising star Marco de Vincenzo called on the childhood memory of an aunt visiting his home in Sicily from the US, bringing little pieces of American culture with each visit. The collection was a hybrid, a tale of two contrasting countries, the urban and the rural, or as the designer stated, "the drama and vitality of Sicily and the innocence and optimism of America."

Sportswear grows up

For several years now, sportswear has been making itself heard on runways around the world, from the ugly trainer craze still sweeping the fashion industry to canny collaborations -- most recently between Fila and Fendi, who teamed teaming up for next-level amounts of logomania (seen front row on Nicki Minaj at this week's Fendi show.)

But Spring-Summer 2019 is throwing us up a new one: cycling shorts. A trend that has been bubbling on Instagram for a while now -- see Kylie Jenner's skin-tight ensembles -- Lycra has gone luxe. And in Milan they were everywhere: We saw navy ones on Bella Hadid at Fendi, fluorescent ones at Blumarine, printed ones at Prada, and baggy ones at Sportmax. Something for everyone, it seems.

Indiana Coronavirus Cases

Data is updated nightly.

Cases: 592709

Reported Deaths: 9340
CountyCasesDeaths
Marion818931301
Lake44495668
Allen32035543
Hamilton28533305
St. Joseph26847372
Elkhart24132341
Vanderburgh18759213
Tippecanoe17482122
Johnson14583285
Porter14464160
Hendricks13931242
Madison10600213
Vigo10513174
Clark10300132
Monroe9109108
Delaware8861133
LaPorte8825155
Howard7916138
Kosciusko788877
Warrick648290
Hancock642597
Bartholomew629294
Floyd6184105
Wayne5956157
Grant5848110
Dubois546172
Boone536367
Morgan519491
Henry496164
Marshall494984
Cass473160
Noble462157
Dearborn461344
Jackson416145
Shelby404279
Lawrence382075
Clinton366340
Gibson357856
DeKalb338563
Montgomery336651
Harrison332642
Knox328239
Miami311243
Steuben308742
Adams296535
Whitley295525
Wabash293945
Ripley293745
Putnam286847
Huntington285058
Jasper284434
White268438
Daviess262172
Jefferson253138
Decatur242882
Fayette242448
Greene235660
Posey232826
Wells230147
LaGrange224761
Clay218732
Scott217337
Randolph209041
Jennings193235
Sullivan189331
Spencer182717
Fountain180425
Washington178218
Starke172041
Jay163122
Fulton160230
Owen160137
Carroll153015
Orange152133
Rush150818
Perry148727
Vermillion145533
Franklin143833
Parke12908
Tipton128432
Pike114125
Blackford108022
Pulaski95137
Newton89721
Brown85730
Benton84510
Crawford7669
Martin70413
Warren6607
Switzerland6235
Union6145
Ohio4707
Unassigned0374

Ohio Coronavirus Cases

Data is updated nightly.

Cases: 831066

Reported Deaths: 10281
CountyCasesDeaths
Franklin97996705
Cuyahoga826131062
Hamilton61629439
Montgomery41873399
Summit33603729
Lucas30316597
Butler29859228
Stark24951413
Warren18974139
Lorain18217212
Mahoning16815336
Lake15491135
Clermont15235104
Delaware1392977
Licking12765132
Trumbull12445306
Fairfield1226080
Greene11682133
Medina11191165
Clark10648264
Wood10000154
Allen9579126
Portage8923106
Miami890573
Richland8848116
Marion7341113
Tuscarawas7162174
Columbiana7117124
Pickaway705750
Wayne6815165
Muskingum676342
Erie5943118
Hancock540490
Ross532787
Scioto523663
Geauga487755
Darke458589
Ashtabula440572
Lawrence436652
Union432828
Mercer425887
Sandusky424462
Auglaize415159
Seneca415155
Huron413638
Shelby411021
Jefferson404566
Belmont397840
Washington373140
Athens36549
Putnam365372
Madison341429
Knox337722
Ashland333838
Fulton327143
Defiance320178
Crawford315169
Preble312434
Brown298219
Logan293229
Ottawa283034
Clinton279643
Williams271166
Highland263618
Jackson258343
Guernsey244025
Champaign242827
Fayette228029
Morrow22404
Perry222618
Holmes219462
Henry211947
Hardin205033
Coshocton198920
Van Wert198044
Gallia191626
Wyandot191449
Adams165815
Pike165217
Hocking164423
Carroll150116
Paulding139921
Noble118340
Meigs103521
Monroe96129
Harrison8598
Morgan79628
Vinton67213
Unassigned00
Fort Wayne
Partly Cloudy
23° wxIcon
Hi: 34° Lo: 21°
Feels Like: 13°
Angola
Cloudy
23° wxIcon
Hi: 31° Lo: 22°
Feels Like: 15°
Huntington
Clear
22° wxIcon
Hi: 33° Lo: 19°
Feels Like: 13°
Fort Wayne
Clear
23° wxIcon
Hi: 34° Lo: 21°
Feels Like: 13°
Lima
Partly Cloudy
23° wxIcon
Hi: 34° Lo: 21°
Feels Like: 13°
Evening Light Snow Tuesday
WFFT Radar
WFFT Temperatures
WFFT National

Community Events